April 22 2017 05:33 PM
April 21 2017 01:30 PM
April 20 2017 09:06 AM
Many many years ago I started tinkering on a novel about surfing. Which was a stretch because I was never a surfer. And because it was set on the West Coast between LA and San Diego, where I’ve never lived. And because it was set in the 1950s, in a surfing culture I hadn't experienced and about which there was little reference material (that I could find, anyway, especially in the pre-Internet years). Even so, I was sure I had a great story to work with. Still think so.
One element of that story was some night surfing. I never night surfed myself but as a teenager (and older) I did go swimming/skinny-dipping after midnight in the Gulf of Mexico on the beaches at Fort Pickens on Santa Rosa Island. It's magical and I wanted that in my surfing story, not thinking that night surfing was a thing anywhere.
So, naturally, I’ve come to discover that it's always been a thing. Not a big thing, not a thing much known outside the surf culture (and not big even there), but a thing nevertheless. I had been on to something and didn't know it.
A few years ago I was talking about writing or about books with a friend and I heard myself saying that the still-unwritten great American novel would be a surfing novel. Still doesn't sound wrong to me.
It’s A Nice Night For Surfing. Beware Of Sharks | Jared Whitlock | New York Times, April 20 2017
April 12 2017 03:38 PM